France’s Most Difficult Pastry to Make (Cannelés de Bordeaux)
Amongst cooks and chefs, even those who do not dabble in pastry, it is well known that the canelé is extremely challenging to make. This is for a number of reasons, from the finicky and expensive copper molds to the pop-over effect that the batter is so prone to falling victim to. The batter requires a precise balance of ingredients, and the baking process demands unwavering attention. The canelé’s characteristic dark, caramelized crust is achieved only with the right combination of high heat, beeswax lining, and exact timing, making every step critical to success.
The interior must remain custardy and tender, providing a textural contrast that is both delicate and sublime. The slightest deviation in temperature, oven placement, or technique can result in a canelé that is too dry, too rubbery, or with a crust that lacks the desired sheen and crispness. Even the batter itself, which must rest for at least 24 hours, can change dramatically based on the temperature and humidity of the kitchen, turning an already daunting task into a delicate dance with the elements.
In short, the canelé is a true test of a baker's patience, precision, and mastery over their craft. It is the kind of challenge that humbles even the most experienced chefs, turning what appears to be a simple pastry into an enigmatic and elusive work of culinary art. For those who dare to attempt it, success is not just measured in taste but in the accomplishment of achieving perfection in what is widely considered one of the most difficult pastries to master.
I was fortunate enough to travel to Bordeaux, the birthplace of this pastry. I sampled canelés from several specialty shops and discovered that I prefer the medium or small canelés over the larger ones, mainly for textural reasons—more crust is a must! While exploring the town, I stumbled upon a specialty pâtisserie shop and struck up a long conversation with an employee who happened to be a former baker at Cassonade, a place known among industry insiders for having the best canelés.
Below is my recipe, incorporating the tips he shared with me during our chat. Shoutout to that guy, wherever you are! Enjoy! 🤘🏼
(left) Trying larger canales at a popular shop in Bordeaux called Baillardran. (left middle) Comparing large canale from Baillardran on bottom to Cassonade on top, (right middle) a smaller canale and medium canale both from Cassonade another canale specialty store in Bordeaux, (right) a picture of copper mold care instructions from Cassonade.
Cannelés de Bordeaux
Ingredients
Instructions
- Melt the bees wax in a Bain Marie then add the butter be stir until homogenous.
- Transfer to a storage container or coat your molds right away.
- Warm the milk, sugar (1), butter and vanilla bean pod in a sauce pot to 145F (63c).
- Add the flour and sugar (2) in a large bowl and stir. Make a hole in the center of the flour and add the egg yolks. When the milk reaches temperature add 1/3 of it to the hole with the yolks and whisk to combine. Add the rest of the milk whisking until you have a smooth batter.
- Let the batter cool slightly then add the rum.
- Strain the batter and chill for 24-48 hours.
- To bake the Canneles, preheat the oven to 465F (240c).
- Remove the batter from the fridge just before use and stir until homogenous. Grease your molds then pour the leaving space towards the top.
- Bake the molds for 8 minutes at 465F, then reduce the heat and cook for another 45-50 minutes at 350F (180c).
- Remove the canales from molds immediately out of the oven. Allow the Canneles to cool fully before enjoying to allow the crust to develop and custard to finish cooking. Eat within 5 hours.
Adam's Notes
- normally for cakes we don’t want gluten, but for these we want gluten because it’s important for its structure. Can’t overwork the batter, go nuts.
- Resting the batter ensures gluten is activated which is important for structure. Also, a cold batter stops the “popover effect”
- Cannelés are baked at high temp to set the crust, then the heat is lowered so the inside can cook evenly. The cold batter also helps ensure this process works well.
- The crust will harden as the cannelés cool. Let cool to room temp before slicing to them.
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